Synodontis multipunctatus
Size (cm) M/F: 15/17
Habitat: Cuckoos originate from Lake Tanganyika in east Africa. They inhabit the rock rubble areas and venture over the sand in search of food and spawning cichlids.
Temperature Range: Not particular, range between 22C - 26C
Minimum Tank Requirement: As with most
fish, cuckoos prefer a large tank, decorated with rocky
outcrops and open sandy areas. It is essential to arrange
the rockwork in such a way as to provide caves for these
mainly nocturnal catfish. The water parameters should
reflect those of the Rift Lake region i.e. pH of 8.0 – 9.0
and relatively hard water. If breeding is desired, Malawi
mouthbrooders need to be present.
Diet: Primarily an insectivore, cuckoos
enjoy a varied diet that includes frozen blood worm, brine
shrimp, shrimp pellets, fish-based food and flake. They also
relish snails.
Breeding: The breeding behaviour of
these fish is quite unique. As the common name suggests,
they require the services of other fish in order to produce
young. As with most Synodontis spp., sexing these
fish is relatively straightforward. Although identically
coloured, males tend to be smaller and normally have longer
pectoral spines. It is usual to see a short papillae close
to the males vent, whereas the female has a blunt “fleshy’
vent. Cuckoos swim amongst spawning cichlids, eating their
eggs and depositing their own. The eggs are then picked up
by the mouthbrooding female cichlid (whom is none the wiser)
and the resulting fry are raised with her own.
The catfish hatch much earlier than the host fry (3 days) and their growth rate is phenomenal. Within the first few days of hatching, the well developed kittens start to eat the other eggs in the cichlid’s mouth. My first spawn of these fish is still one of my greatest fish breeding joys. I was amazed at the growth rate. The catfish went from eggs to fully formed miniature versions of their parents inside of three weeks. Personally I have found that taking the eggs from the host cichlid and artificially tumbling them, results in larger numbers of fry. However, inexperienced fishkeepers should not try this method.
The best food for the newly hatched
cuckoo catfish fry is cichlid eggs.
Failing this option, artemia and finely chopped bloodworm is
readily accepted. There is also a tendency for the young
kittens to cannibalize each other. To avoid this, I devised
a way of keeping the fry separated from each other until
they were about three weeks old. I modified a fishing tackle
box and utilised the separate partitions (which I drilled
holes through and screened off with flyscreen patches to aid
water circulation) as mini homes for the fry. A chunk of
polystyrene was added for flotation.
I found that groups of at least 6
cuckoo catfish resulted in
spawns. My personal success has involved the use of C. moorii, G. acei and Ps. elongatus as
host fish. Other successes include the use of N.
venustus, Ps. lombardoi, L. caeruleus,
A. burtoni and Ps. saulosi. Generally
speaking, cichlids that produce large numbers of small eggs
seem to work best. After a few spawns, the host cichlids
become aware of the catfish’s intentions and spawns dwindle.
Therefore it is necessary to move the catfish in with a new
group of fish periodically for the continuance of successful
spawnings.
Temperament/Notes: I have found these catfish to be slightly territorial towards each other and have witnessed severe harassment of females where group numbers have been small. Ideally at least 6 (preferably more) of these fish should be kept together to avoid “one-on-one” aggression. They tend to be much more active during daylight hours than most catfish species and once seen, a school of S. multipunctatus interacting in an aquarium, is a sight not to be forgotten. Courtesy of Andrea Watts.
